The noticeable ridge on right side rows can be disguised by using a "deep" stitch. Instead of passing the hook under only the top 2 strands as in normal stitches, pass the hook under all three strands of yarn. The ridge is still there but not so obvious. In a graph such as mentioned above, the right side ridge would detract from the overall appearance of the graph.
Two points to consider, however:
First-the fabric is more dense- almost felted -to use a knitting wool term- than with the normal stitch.
Second-the fabric will be slightly narrower than with the normal stitch.
The first half of my test graph was 26 stitches using the normal hdc and the second half of the graph, also 26 sts was about 3/4 of an inch narrower (roughly the width of three stitches.)
After the pompom is shaped, thread each yarn tie on its own needle. Hold both needles in one hand with the needle points the right distance apart. Insert both needles in to the fabric at the same time.
No more fighting with the second strand, or having the first strand fall out.
How do you tell if an unknown yarn is natural or synthetic fibre? Easy, according to the Pro. Just burn a short piece of the yarn. Synthetic fibre wil melt to a glob and natural fibre will turn to ash. Wool will smell like burned hair.
Shortening the hook to 4 - 4 1/2 inches will make it easier to pass the hook through the loom, especially when the loom is almost full, and, in the grand scheme of things, it might even increase your speed by 3 - 4 stitches an hour.
The Herringbone Slip Stitch actually happened because I was not paying attention to what I was doing! However, it looks good so it was "planned". It was used to make a seam at the back of a hood.
Hold the 2 pieces together, insert hook in first stitch of both pieces of fabric, do **slip stitch, chain 1** across. End with a sc in last stitch.
This was used to join decorative stitches so the herringbone effect looks almost like the stitches. It probably is not for every seam.
With first ball of yarn, chain 10 or 15 chains.
Join second ball at starting slip knot and use for stitches.
Add chains as needed.
Add stitches as needed.
Especially useful for decorative stitches that must start in the first row. The start chain is not noticable.
This method was used to start a Christening Shawl in the same pattern as the Gown. The start chain was 380 chains long involving 21 pattern repeats. Using the Two Strand Start, I was able to work the starting chain and the base row for the lace without having to keep counting or marking how many chains were done. When I was finished with the needed 21 repeats, I had only 5 or 6 extra chains to remove.
The following technique works with single, half double, and double crochet. However, the longer stitches tend to be a bit open.
Row 1:
First stitch goes into the base of the turning chain (the normal location for a first single crochet).
At the end of the row DO NOT work the last stitch into the turning chain of the previous row.
Row 2:
First stitch goes it the stitch adjacent to the turning chain (normal location for a first hdc or dc).
At the end of the row DO work the last stitch into the turning chain of the previous row.
Alternate row 1 and 2 for the fabric.