COOL IDEAS


Also in this Link:
Disguise the Ridge
Sewing on Pompoms
Natural or Synthetic Fibre?
Hairpin Lace Hook
Herringbone Slip Stitch
Two Strand Start
Slip Stitch Lock
Straight Seam Working in the Round
Working with the Cro-Hook
Some of the ideas that follow are from professional knitters and Yarn Store owners. We prefer the small, independently owned stores for friendly help and information. Some of the ideas that follow are from my own trial and error work -sometimes based on carefully thought out plans and sometimes based on the "oops! but it looks good anyway" method. I leave it to the reader to figure out which are the tips from the Pro and which are mine.
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DISGUISE THE RIDGE

The noticeable ridge on right side rows can be disguised by using a "deep" stitch. Instead of passing the hook under only the top 2 strands as in normal stitches, pass the hook under all three strands of yarn. The ridge is still there but not so obvious. In a graph such as mentioned above, the right side ridge would detract from the overall appearance of the graph.

Two points to consider, however:
First-the fabric is more dense- almost felted -to use a knitting wool term- than with the normal stitch.
Second-the fabric will be slightly narrower than with the normal stitch.
The first half of my test graph was 26 stitches using the normal hdc and the second half of the graph, also 26 sts was about 3/4 of an inch narrower (roughly the width of three stitches.)

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SEWING ON POMPOMS
Here is a quick, no fuss way to sew on pompoms.

After the pompom is shaped, thread each yarn tie on its own needle. Hold both needles in one hand with the needle points the right distance apart. Insert both needles in to the fabric at the same time.

No more fighting with the second strand, or having the first strand fall out.

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Natural or Synthetic?

How do you tell if an unknown yarn is natural or synthetic fibre? Easy, according to the Pro. Just burn a short piece of the yarn. Synthetic fibre wil melt to a glob and natural fibre will turn to ash. Wool will smell like burned hair.

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HAIRPIN LACE TECHNIQUE

Shortening the hook to 4 - 4 1/2 inches will make it easier to pass the hook through the loom, especially when the loom is almost full, and, in the grand scheme of things, it might even increase your speed by 3 - 4 stitches an hour.

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Herringbone Slip Stitch

The Herringbone Slip Stitch actually happened because I was not paying attention to what I was doing! However, it looks good so it was "planned". It was used to make a seam at the back of a hood.

Hold the 2 pieces together, insert hook in first stitch of both pieces of fabric, do **slip stitch, chain 1** across. End with a sc in last stitch.

This was used to join decorative stitches so the herringbone effect looks almost like the stitches. It probably is not for every seam.

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Two Strand Start
Requires two balls of yarn

With first ball of yarn, chain 10 or 15 chains.
Join second ball at starting slip knot and use for stitches.
Add chains as needed.
Add stitches as needed.
Especially useful for decorative stitches that must start in the first row. The start chain is not noticable.
This method was used to start a Christening Shawl in the same pattern as the Gown. The start chain was 380 chains long involving 21 pattern repeats. Using the Two Strand Start, I was able to work the starting chain and the base row for the lace without having to keep counting or marking how many chains were done. When I was finished with the needed 21 repeats, I had only 5 or 6 extra chains to remove.

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SLIP STITCH LOCK
End row with normal slip stitch.
Pull free end of yarn through slip stitch.
Pull free end of yarn back through stitch just ahead of slip stitch loop.
Weave loose ends in in the normal manner.
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Straight Seam Working in the Round
Working a garment in the round and joining the beginning and end of the row seems to have the added problem of a seam that veers to one side if the work is not turned after every row. However, by going in one direction all the time, the fabric has a nicer texture to it caused by whichever side of the stitch is considered the "right side."

The following technique works with single, half double, and double crochet. However, the longer stitches tend to be a bit open.

Row 1:
First stitch goes into the base of the turning chain (the normal location for a first single crochet).
At the end of the row DO NOT work the last stitch into the turning chain of the previous row.

Row 2:
First stitch goes it the stitch adjacent to the turning chain (normal location for a first hdc or dc).
At the end of the row DO work the last stitch into the turning chain of the previous row.

Alternate row 1 and 2 for the fabric.

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Working with the Cro-Hook

I have just begun working with the cro-hook and find it an interesting technique. However, one problem bothered me with my first project -that of too many loops required for the length of the hook. The instructions called for a tip protector to be placed over the end to keep the loops on but that didn't change the fact that there were too many loops on the hook.
SOLUTION:
When the hook was filled with loops -about halfway through an odd row- I turned the hook, used the second color, and worked off most of the loops. In effect, two rows were being worked at once. Then turn the hook again and finish the odd row -adding loops- and turn the hook again and finish the even -working loops off- row.
Problem solved.
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