- If you need to learn to knit to do ribbing on sweaters and are having trouble
with the technique, try the "European" or "Icelandic" method of holding
the yarn in the left hand.
- Adding new yarn of the same color:
Work last sc of first yarn to 2 loops on the hook.
With new yarn, form a loop with an 8" tail. Pull this loop through the 2 loops on the hook
to complete the stitch. Work 1 sc with the new yarn over the 2 yarn tails.
Using one of the tails instead of the supply yarn, work next sc over
the supply yarn and other tail. Use the other tail and work the next
sc over the supply yarn and first tail.
Using the supply yarn work the next 3 sc over
the 2 tails and drop the tails to the back of the fabric.
Continue the row in normal fashion.
Clip the tail yarn close to the stitches.
- If you have to work with 2 dye lots of the same color,
the different shades can be hidden by working
2 rows with each dye lot alternately.
If you are working in the round, work 1 round with each dye lot.
This technique will also blend 3 different dye lots.
With second yarn work 1 row then join the 3rd yarn and drop the 2nd yarn.
Work 1 row with the 3rd yarn. Change yarn at the end of every row.
You are working with 3 balls at the same time but you get to use up leftover balls of yarn.
The dye lots have to be really close in shade to work.
Tip #3 will also work to blend 2 or 3 yarns
of the same color but slightly different thicknesses.
- Definitions:
Supply Yarn:
The part of the yarn that is being worked (and comes directly from the ball).
Tail:
The short length of yarn at the beginning of a foundation chain -"starting tail"-,
also, the length of yarn left after fastening off the row,
also, the short ends of yarn at the point where new yarn is added.
- One Single crochet stitch done in Phentex Dynasty yarn takes almost 3" of yarn.
The term "scrap yarn" really doesn't apply when making 2 rows of one color on a hat.
(2 rows = 120 stitches or almost 28 feet of yarn).
- Right Side/Wrong Side:
If the piece is made with back and forth rows then both sides will look the same.
With something like a dishcloth, Right Side/Wrong Side just identifies one side for sewing in loose ends.
If several pieces will be joined, then mark the same side
of each piece as "right side" or else the rows won't align properly.
- Front/Back Side:
The front side always faces you; the back side is always away from you.
And when the piece is turned, the (new) front side will face you.
- Reading Graphs:
Right-Handed Crocheters start at bottom right corner and read odd-numbered rows
from right to left and even-numbered row from left to right.
Left-Handed Crocheters start at bottom left corner and read odd-numbered rows
from left to right and even-numbered rows from right to left.
- Make the foundation chain really loose or use a hook that is one size larger.
At the start of the first row, the chain may look too loose
but at the end of the first row the chain will have tightened considerably.
- Working the first row into the back ridge of the foundation chain is a bit fussy
but makes a nice edge or a great edge for sewing together.
Be sure to make the foundation chain even looser for this technique.
- Needle Join (or duplicate stitch)for joining rounds:
Rounds of single crochet:Chain 1(this counts as the first stitch),
sc in next stitch and each stitch around.
Rounds of Hdc or Dc: Chain appropriately for the turning chain,
skip first stitch and continue
with 1 hdc or dc -as needed- in each stitch around.
Do not fasten off. Cut yarn leaving a 6 inch tail.
Pull yarn end through last stitch.
With yarn on needle, insert needle under top loops
of first actual hdc or dc -do not join to the turning chain- from front to back,
then through last stitch in round creating a stitch. Weave in end.