Norwegian Yoke Sweater

28 inch finished chest with Red Heart Comfort yarn
5.00 and 6.00 mm hooks
Stitch used: Back Loop Only Single Crochet
done in the round.
Do Body to the underarm first
then the sleeves to the underarm.

Materials:
Main color for body and sleeves not including yoke.
Variety of colors for the yoke.
(I like to use a different main color for the yoke.)

Pattern:
Body to Underarm:
Ribbing:
With 5.00 mm hook, chain 7 and work 6 sc in back loop only for 46 ribs (92 rows).
Chain 1, Turn.
Bring starting end up behind last row and slip stitch ends together using front loops of each sc of last row and free loops of starting row.
Chain 1, place marker in chain 1.
Change to 6.00 mm hook.

Row 1: Work 1 sc in the end of each row around and one sc in the chain 1 with the marker (marker indicates end of the round).
Work an additional 26 rounds (or a total of 11 1/2 inches from bottom of ribbing to underarm).
Move marker at the end of each round.

Sleeves to the Underarm:
With 5.00 mm hook, chain 7 and work 6 sc in Back Loop Only Single Crochet ribbing for 12 ribs (24 rows).
Slip stitch join using instructions for body ribbing.
Place marker in chain 1.
Change to 6.00 mm hook

Round 1: Sc in each of the next 2 row ends; 2 sc in next row end, (sc in each of the next 5 row ends, 2 sc in next row end)3 times, sc in each of the next 3 row ends, sc in chain 1 with marker. Move marker to end of round 1(28 sc in round).
Round 2: Increase. 2 sc in first stitch, work to end of round, 2 sc in last stitch.(30 stitches in round)
Round 3 and 4: Work Even.
Round 5: Work even then move marker 1 stitch to left.
(Working in the round causes the stitches to angle slightly to the right.
By moving the end of the round to the left, the increases line up better.)
Round 6: Increase. (32 stitches)
Rounds 7 and 8: Work even.
Round 9: Work even, move marker to the left.
Round 10: Increase (34 stitches).
Rounds 11, 12, and 13: Work even.
Round 14: Increase (36)
Round 15: Work even, move marker.
Round 16: Work even.
Round 17: Increase (38)
Rounds 18 and 19: Work even.
Round 20: Increase (40).
Round 21: Work even, move marker.
Round 22: Increase (42).
Round 23: Work even.
Round 24: Increase (44).
Round 25: Work even, move marker.
Round 26: Increase (46).
Round 27: (last round) Work even and stop 2 sts before end of round.
Leave an 8 inch tail and cut yarn. Pull end through stitch.

Make second sleeve to match.

Join Sleeves to Body:
On the body, place marker in last stitch of last row.
Skip 4 sts and place marker in next stitch.
Skip 40 stitches and place marker in next stitch.
Skip 4 sts and place marker in next stitch.

On the sleeve, place marker in last stitch of last row.
Skip 4 stitches and place marker in next stitch.

The above image shows:
Body to the right, sleeve to the left.
Pink marker on body holds last stitch.
Top white marker is last stitch of back,
top blue marker is first stitch of sleeve.
Bottom white marker is first stitch of front,
bottom blue marker is last stitch of sleeve.

Using tail from sleeve, sew the 4 sts between the markers of the body
to the 4 sts between markers of the sleeve.

To begin join, SC2Tog stitch in first marker with first stitch of the join on body, then SC2tog 1st stitch of join on sleeve and stitch in blue marker.

Image above shows completed first join.
Seam has been stretched to show the join better.
work even around the sleeve.

Image above shows 2nd sleeve join.
Black lines show the stitches of the join.
SC2tog the stitch in the sleeve marker with the joining stitch,
and then SC2tog the next joining stitch with the body marker.
Work across body.
Work second sleeve joining in same manner.

Finish the round and change to yoke color and pattern.

A good pattern for this sweater is a two color yoke starting with **six stitches of color 1, six stitches color 2. Repeat from ** around. do not join, just move marker.

Yoke Pattern:
Rounds 1 - 5:
Alternate 6 sts of color 1 and 6 sts of color 2, move marker at end of each round.
Carry unused yarn behind fabric.
Round 6:
With color 1, **sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, change to color 2, repeat from **. Alternate around.
Rounds 7 - 9:
Alternate 5 sts of color 1 with 5 sts of color 2 around.
Round 10:
With color 1, **sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, change to color 2, repeat from **. Alternate around.
Rounds 11 and 12:
Alternate 4 sts of color 1 with 4 sts of color 2 around.
Round 13:
With color 1, **sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog over next 2 sts, change to color 2, repeat from **. Alternate around.
Round 14:
Alternate 3 sts of color 1 with 3 sts of color 2 around.
Round 15:
With color 1, **sc in next st, sc2tog over next 2 sts, change to color 2, repeat from **. Alternate around.
At end of round, change to 5 mm hook and main body color.
Chain 5, and work 4 sc in Back Loop Only in ribbing around. Slip stitch Join ends together. fasten off.
Weave in all ends.


The following 2 images show variations on the above pattern.

The sections twist to the right because each round
starts 1 stitch before the previous round.
The black dots are the decreases.

Another variation on the above pattern.
Other colors and patterns are worked within the color segments.
Most of the yoke is done with 3 colors in each round.

The back side of the yoke showing the stranding.

Tips and techniques for working the yoke:
-Multiples of 12 work well. With only 15 rows and 168 stitches, there is not space for an intricate pattern.
-Changing colors:
Work last sc to 2 loops on hook.
New yarn goes under supply yarn and over hook. Drop first color and complete st with second color.
If unused color is carried more than 3 sts, it must be "tacked down." Work 3rd sc to 2 loops on hook, place strand color on top of supply yarn and finish st in normal manner.
-Untangle yarn frequently -after every color change if necessary.
-Start with simple patterns like the 2-color segments; other pattern ideas will occur to you as you become more confident.


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